My friends (Haruka and Makoto) and I decided to spend the last moments of our holiday in Guizhou province. Spending 2,660 RMB for a 5 days visit (approximately 3.2 million Indonesian Rupiah or 333 US$), we bore the mediocre services of China Travel Service. We had several unpleasant incidents prior to departure due to some unprofessional slips, nevertheless, the trip would be kept as one of those wonderful memories of China.
This trip is indeed a much welcomed experience for myself, especially after an unimpressive summer in Hong Kong. There are some drawbacks in the tour package, but I guess it's the sense of becoming a traveler again that really enthralled me. I love travelling, it's in my blood. It excites me to see foreign land and culture. The sensation of a new experience stimulates something in me. It was indeed a welcomed change. I chose Guizhou, the others just followed. I saw a footing on CCTV9 and was impressed by the chains of mountains that represent the face of Guizhou.
The Miao minority group culture has also taken up my attention. Unfortunately in this trip, the tour package has blatantly done ill justice to the representation of the Miao culture. I was gravely disappointed to see the display. We should have taken solo trip to go further into the Miao villages and explore the community livelihood. Bad planning. Nevertheless the magnificence of Guizhou's nature remedy my anguish and allowed me to keep fond memories of this particular trip.
Guizhou province is situated in southwest China and has a population of about 35 million, of which 65% is Han and the rest a mixture of minorities such as Miao, Bouyei, Dong, etc. Mountains and plateaus make up some 65% of Guizhou's topography. The terrain is rugged, with karst formations, underground rivers, jagged peaks, dramatic valleys, and terraced rice fields. Whichever transportation we took (cars, trains, buses), we were awed by the curvacious contour and the fresh mother nature's colors of the land.
We arrived in 贵阳 Guiyang (The City of Forest), capital of Guizhou, on 12 August late at night and had the opportunity to try the famous street food (小吃) at 合群路 Hequn Road. One of the most famous stand is 丝娃娃 Siwawa. It receives its name because various kinds of "Shreds" are wrapped up within a piece of small thin pancake, about 7cm in diameter. Put a handful of shreds of kelp, radish, bean sprouts, preserved cabbage, fried soybeans,etc in it. Then the cake is rolled up and put in some sauce. Putting the roll into the mouth, you find it a little bit hot, crisp, sour and tasty. Yes people, Guizhou's food is generally sour and spicy. My kind of food.
The next day we took a 5 hours train trip to 镇远 Zhenyuan. Taking a train is an interesting experience indeed. Forget the drawbacks (some ill mannered passengers and smelly toilet), it was during this trip that we had our first glimpse of Guizhou natural shape.
As the train flew through chains of mountains, the hills' different shades of green and indigo as manufactured by their distances lured our gazes to never look away and invaded our minds to never forget. Terraced corn fields and rice paddies seemed like exotic embroideries to the already rich design of Guizhou land. Grey and beige hills as well as cliffs that are not covered with greens look as if masterfully carved by God to depict the complex calligraphy of Cataya, of Ancient China that tells the perpetual tales of human's relationship with nature and God in this archaic land. It was truly candy to the eye and mind.
5 hours later, we arrived at ZHENYUAN, the Ancient Town of the Miao people (Eastern part of Guizhou Province), where we marveled on the 青龙洞 (Black Dragon Cave) and 舞阳河 (Wuyang River Scenic Area). Located at the edge of Yunnan-Guizhou plateau, Zhenyuan is sheltered by the mountains. It is a land-and-water transportation center since early times. Hence it is well-reputed as the 'Oriental Venice'.
The BLACK DRAGON CAVE TEMPLE is an ancient temple complex located on Zhonghe Mountain to the east of Zhenyuan. It is the centerpiece of the all ancient monuments in Zhenyuan. It includes single and multi-storied pavilions, temples, shrines, palaces and so on. Surviving a couple of wars, the Black Dragon Cave was built during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and its current shape is the result of several renovations. With many separate buildings, the Black Dragon Cave encompasses Zhusheng Bridge, Zhongyuan Temple, Ziyang Shuyuan Academy of Classical Learning, YuhuangGe Jade Emperor Pavilion, and XiangluYan Longevity Palace.
All of the buildings there were constructed in accordance with the natural features of Zhonghe Mountain which is precipitous. The architectural sculptures and adornments are simple and unsophisticated, yet quietly elegant. They are quite unlike those of other temples which are ornately decorated. The way in which these temples are arranged together embodies the combination of Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism in a way. In 1988, the Black Dragon Cave was listed as a key cultural relic under state protection.
WUYANG RIVER SCENIC AREA. Flowing through the Miaoling Mountains, the charming and lively Wuyang River runs 95 kilometers (about 59 miles). Famous for its beautiful landscape, historic sites and dense minority ethnic customs, Wuyang River Scenic Area covers 625 square kilometers (about 241 square miles).
Shapes of the mountains, hills, springs and caves vary uniquely, e.g. Goddess of Mercy Cave, the Five Old Men, Fishhead, etc. The water was green and so clear that you could easily see the bottom of the river. As we dipped our hands and feet into the river, sudden splash of freshness fill our senses. It was so relaxing and pleasant.
One thing that I immediately noticed about Zhenyuan Town and scenic areas was how clean the town is, compare to Fuzhou, for example. The local Miao minority people took pride in boasting their beautiful, clean and safe scenic areas. Their consciousness of being minority groups and facing potential opportunities to benefit from increasing tourist industry have increased their pride and determination to lure as much tourists as possible by maintaining quality and service. Though there are much to be improved in terms of (modern) services and facilities, I admire their pride on their ancient town.
Upon our return to Guiyang, we visited 黄果树 Huangguoshu (Yellow Fruit Tree) Waterfalls. The Huangguoshu Waterfalls including Tianxingqiao Scenic Spot are situated in Zhenning County, 150 km away from Guiyang. The region has long been known for its scenic beauty of crisscrossing streams and alternating peaks and gorges.
At the lower reaches of the Huangguoshu Waterfalls, about 6 kilometers away, is the 天星桥 TIAN XING QIAO (HEAVENLY STAR BRIDGE) SCENIC SPOT, which is composed of three interconnected scenic attractions, namely, the potted landscape, the cave and the stone forest in water.
天星桥, The HEAVENLY STAR BRIDGE itself is a magnificent work of nature, a fantastic natural stone arch flying over a deep gorge. Each side of this natural bridge, you can look down and see raving river flows and beautiful combinations of trees and rocks. From a far, this bridge is indeed one of God's Wonderous Creation.
天星水上石林 Tianxing Shuishang Shilin or HEAVENLY STAR STONE FOREST ON WATER is a stone forest above the water covering an area of 0.19 square kilometers, with natural rocks of different sizes and shapes. There are winding stone paths zigzagging through the rocky hills. If you walk on the path, you will find yourself surrounded by fantastic stones in different shapes and almost lose yourself in the labyrinth. I climbed and went down the dramatic terrain, ducked to avoid hanging rocks, walked sideways through narrow gaps, hopped on steppingstones on crystal green water, and so on and so forth, while I feasted my eyes with the marvelous natural landscape. It is indeed a fantastic trip. Funnily, most of the steppingstones have dates where you could find your birthday in one of them. I took a picture of mine. Hehe...
The 天星洞 Tianxingdong or HEAVENLY STAR CAVE is actually a huge cave containing various stalagmites and stalactites. Stalactite is icicle-shaped formation of lime hanging from the roof of a cave, formed by the steady dripping of water containing minerals, while stalagmite is formation of lime extending upwards like a pillar from the floor of a cave as water from a stalactite drips onto it. In one of the halls, you can see bunches of "grapes" hanging from the ceiling, while in another hall some "vegetables" are growing beside your feet. You can see "birds" over your head and "the Great Wall" below you. Under the colorful lights in the cave, those figures formed by stones look real. There are four high stone pillars in the cave, at least twenty meters high each, tessellated with stone flowers of different types and colors.
The 黄果树 HUANG GUO SHU WATERFALLS are on the Baishui River in Zhenning County. Here mountains rise one after another. The mighty Baishui River, when it comes to this place, falls suddenly from the cliffs and forms a nine-stage waterfall. The Grand Waterfall is our final and largest stage.
The GRAND WATERFALL is the largest cataract in Asia, about 74 meters high and 81 meters wide. Hidden behind the waterfall is a 134-meter long WATER CURTAIN CAVE with fantastic stalactites. The cave consists of five halls, six windows and three springs. In the cave tunnel and in the dry season, you can see the plunging water like numberless strings of pearls flying down over your head. You can't help feeling fascinated by its beauty, overwhelmed by its mystery, and thrilled by its momentum. As sunny autumn day accompany our trip, the sight was especially beautiful as a rainbow arched over the falls with misty clouds floating slowly over the valley.
Upon our leave, we came across a Miao Ethnic Group Dance, as if farewelling us goodbye and goodluck. I hope to get the chance to explore this wonderful minority group another day.
贵阳火车站 Guiyang (GY) Train Station
Eating out (小吃) at 丝娃娃Siwawa,合群路Hequn Rd
青龙洞 (Black Dragon Cave Temple)
In front of the Black Dragon Cave (青龙洞)
View frm YuhuangGe-Jade Emperor Pavilion
View of the City from the Top
Miao Ethnic Minority Costume
Wishing Tree (Red Ribbons = Wishes)
Inside the Zhongyuan Temple
双 Shuang = Couple's Harmony
ZiyangShuyuan-Classical Learning Academy
Toss a Coin into the Pot & Get Your Wish
Towards XiangluYan, the Longevity Palace
Towards 舞阳河 Wuyang River (View from Car)
Strolling the Path Towards Wuyang River
Local Snacks = Bugs and Baby Crabs 2 Comments
Boats Anchoring at Wuyang River
Posing (See Upper Slight Left)
Traditional Boat Slowly Gliding on River
Goddess of Mercy (Kwan Im) Cave
How Little Human Is Compare to Nature
Melting At ZY Train Station OTW to GY.. HOT!!! 1 Comment
Miao Tradition Wedding Game for 29 RMB
Miao Minority (Not so) Folk Dance
Stepping on Blazing Metal
Chains of Mountains 山岭 - View from Car
Heading to Tianxingqiao (Heavenly Star)
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